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Adam
Sheriff
Welcome fellow Northwood owners to my little place
| Joined: | Tue Dec 16th, 2003 |
| Location: | Oregon USA |
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#1 Posted: Tue Jul 10th, 2007 20:43 |
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CUSTOM BUILD YOUR PERFECT RV
You have the choice to build your CUSTOM TRAILER, 5th WH or TT, TH or slide in camper. It can be a Nash, Artic Fox or Desert Fox Model, your choice of length, width and height, inside and outside, within FACTORY SPEC’S. You will have to pay a custom build charge for your perfect RV, and ALL the available options that Northwood offers in 2007 are available for all makes or models for all RV's. What would you realistically pay for this privilege, above the MSRP?
Please make a reply as to the changes you would do for your perfect RV.
$1000 - $2000
$2000 - $4000
$6000 - $8000
$10000 - $12000
List your model, Artic Fox. Desert Fox or Nash and Model Number.
These are the following are areas you can change or upgrade:
Construction: Change Floor Plan/inside/outside heights/change front angle for towing etc? Yes/No = Why/How?
Chassis, Frame and Suspension: Change or add back up lights/Storage lights etc? Yes/No = Why/how?
Plumbing: Change locations of main tank/piping/adding accumulator/water pump etc? Yes/No =Why/how?
Electrical: Change/add extra plugs/switches/Solar panel/Batteries/inverters/generators etc? Yes/No = Why/how?
Heating/Air conditioning: Change/Brand/size etc? Yes/No = Why/how?
Bathroom: Change location/size of tub/bowl/cabinets/drawers/lights etc? Yes/No = Why/how?
Interior: Change colors/furnishings/bed styles/carpet/cabinets/drawers/windows sizes etc? Yes/No = Why/how?
Exterior: Change siding material/color/decals/Awning/Lighting/Storage areas etc? Yes/No = Why/how?
Safety Features: Change/add other items/Theft/Alarm system/Master Elect safety switch etc? Yes/No = Why/how?
Have the perfect RV now:
____________________
Adam
2007 Dodge Megacab 5.9 3.73
07 AF31W-BH Hensley Hitch/Brake Smart Controller
http://community.webshots.com/user/arcticfox29v?vhost=community
Mod list http://www.afnash.com/forum/view_topic.php?id=5368
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Paul
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| Location: | New York USA |
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#2 Posted: Wed Jul 11th, 2007 23:01 |
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There are very few changes we would make to our 04 28KS Desert Fox, and for all I know, some of them may have been addressed in the more recent builds. Never-the-less, there are a handful of changes which would be greatly appreciated.
Number one on our list would be to upgrade the foam padding in the dinette and the sofa. As presently configured, sitting in the chairs for more than a few minutes at a time, is not pleasant.
Secondly, I would like to see the access hatch for the power cord enlarged. The contortions I must go through to switch in and out of generator mode, are downright painful. By the time you get your hand in there you can't see anything so you are operating strictly by feel and to top it off, the plug must be twisted around in a space so confined the pigtail barely fits and everything must be wiggled and scrunched until the prongs eventually line up correctly. A larger opening would also make it much easier to stow or remove the power cord, particularly in cold weather when the cord is stiff as a board.
Third, I would want higher quality valves for both the black and grey water. When I open the cap on the drain, I should not be deluged because the valve is working its way open each day in transit. The current situation is both unsanitary and uncalled for.
Lastly, and this may not be true of the newer models, a shade for the roof vent in the front bedroom would certainly come in handy for afternoon naps.
I have no idea what the above changes would cost, but I doubt very much they would add more than a hundred dollars or so at the wholesale level.
____________________
2009 Siverado 2500 HD Crew Cab 4X4
2005 Desert Fox 28KS
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Nvreloader
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| Location: | Lovelock, Nevada USA |
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#3 Posted: Thu Jul 12th, 2007 08:19 |
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List your model, 2008 Desert Fox 28KS
These are the following areas I would change at this time, being that I have not spent any time inside or using it, this is just a SWAG on my part. I know things would change after adapting to the TH, instead of the tent. 
Construction: I would change the floor plan by lowering the overall wall or ceiling height inside by 12" or so, (easier to heat/cool). Make a aerodynamic nose cone that encloses the tongue/gas bottles area, (better fuel mileage), could be lockable and have extra storage space for light items etc, and still provide the best turning radius possible, with no front window would be a easy option.
Chassis, Frame and Suspension: Have extra insulation (blown foam type) around ALL TANKS for protection needed for cold weather and in ALL areas on the bottom of the trailer that are susceptible to water contact from roadway. Completely enclose and insulate the WHOLE UNDERSIDE, front to back, side to side maintains the heat/cold inside better (depending on the outside weather conditions). Provide extra storage spaces or boxes where ever possible for stinky slinky, level blocks and other items normally needed or used around the trailer etc. Have heavy duty suspension parts/axles.
Plumbing: Add a instant supply water heater 8-10 gal with LP gas/elect, add water accumulator, better water pump, water filters makes sure all water lines run in a common area with access ports/holes provided, be well insulated for ALL THE PLUMBING REQUIRED.
Electrical: Add extra plugs/switches and 12 v florescent lights & 120 v in those areas that are needed or wanted. Have a complete solar package with all the required batteries inverters/converters etc you could order and have installed during the construction of your RV. Have all the electrical wires/cables run in a common pipe/area, have extra storage places for extra batteries,(from the outside edge of the frame to the edge of outside edge of the side wall), provide a route for the HD cables as needed etc. Provide better sensors for all tanks.
Heating/Air conditioning: Have a Low profile AC on roof (clearance and fuel mileage).
Bathroom: Change location and provide a nice corner shower/tub combo, (better than the broom closet now). Add required switches to control lighting and fans etc, add extra storage space or drawers etc where ever possible.
Interior: Change colors of the furnishings etc, provide a standard size bed, add extra drawers and storage spaces wherever possible, provide 12 florescent lights or LED type as needed. Have a choice of different sized windows/options.
Exterior: Add a choice of outside colors and decals. Have night lights inside the storage areas and a light for the stairway at night, add back up lights. Use all the wasted space for possible storage spaces/areas for items normally used around or with the trailer.
Safety Features: Add Theft/Alarm system for inside and storage compartments, Master Electrical safety shutoff switch. Add complete diagram of the internal structure (studs etc), AC/heating ducts, wiring and plumbing diagrams for that model of RV.
$1000 - $2000 should cover this options.
Last edited on Sat Jul 14th, 2007 02:03 by Nvreloader
____________________
*Don&Francie,2 Aussies Bear&Shep
"Where the pavement ends,and the West begins"
2010 F350 PSD,CC,SRW,6 spd man,4x4,3.55,Tow pkg/mirrors,50 gal bed tank,Caravan Camper
2008 DF 28KS,1400# Equalizer WD Hitch
05 Honda Rubicon
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b7xv
Member
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#4 Posted: Thu Jul 12th, 2007 18:33 |
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Since I have the smallest of the lot, Nash 17c, there probably isn't much that could be changed, but her goes.
Make some type of modification to the front of the trailer to make it more aerodynamic, enclose the propane bottles and angle the front a bit. Use the low profile AC on the roof for better air flow and fully enclose the underside for smoother air flow.
Electrical, add lights to the storage area, make the under the dinette storage available from the inside with a door instead of having to remove the cushions. Add and outlet next to the stove.
Plumbing, use better quality faucets on the kitchen sink, the high rise is good, but very flimsy feeling. make the bathroom faucet stick further over the sink.
Bathroom, replace the "tub" shower with just a shower, easier access. Add small shelves next to the medicine cabinet for storage, enlarge the counter around the sink a bit.
Windows, change out the venitian blinds for the new vabric style verticle blinds that can be raised and lowered with one hand. I have seen these in another brand of trailer and they look and work much easier than the venitian blinds.
Fabrics, colors, etc. Neutral solid colors would be better, doesn't date the trailer as quickly as the patterned fabrics and greens and blues do.
Appliances, no changes here, they work fine and haven't had any reason to modify. Possibley move the microwave to a lower location so it is easier to load and unload with liquids in dishes.
EXterior, no changes here.
Frame and suspension, shock mounts on mine would be nice, even just add the shocks.
Should be able to accomplish this in the $1000-$2000 range.
____________________
Gary & Connie Burchill
Otto the Shih Tzu
2008 toyota tundra dbl. cab, tow package,5.7 6spd.
2009 AF 22h, electric tongue jack, fantastic fan, Honda 200i
Avatar: Granite Lake RV park, Clarkston,Wa.
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bobnelson
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#5 Posted: Thu Jul 12th, 2007 21:30 |
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Custom build.??. Some that has already been mentioned, but you would have to expect a major increase in price.. the line would have to be stopped and/or the build happen in another facility. All of that cost $$.. And Northwood, like any other companty, is in it for $$.
First would be to make sure there is an inverter and/or DC plugs where someone would sit with a laptop. After all, this is this is the age of technology.
And a place to mount a printer/copier. For those who don't need one, can be sub as a food storage area. But at least wire the location for power and USB or Cat 5.
Allow for an upgrade to Honda Generator systems. 
We have a 1150 camper and space is a premium. Make use of every little corner. Closets all have hangers for hanging clothes. People who have campers generally leave the iron home and live in Jeans and t shirts. Maybe one place for a couple of coats. The wardrobes should have shelves, not a hanger bar.
Will add more later. 
____________________
Bob & Betsy Nelson, Cove Oregon . . USN Retired . . . KE7ZRY
01 Chev 3500 DRW D/A, SuperHitch
2010 AF 25R, Yamaha Gen sets.
2008 Polaris RZR SXS on the Truck
http://nelsonstravels.blogspot.com/
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V-Rod
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| Location: | Blackfoot, Idaho USA |
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#6 Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2007 20:42 |
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I would change a few things around. It would be an Artic Fox 29-5E.
1. Better insulation in walls (R-13), ceiling(R-26) and floors(R-26). Also a completely covered under belly. This would help the furnace and A/C to work much better.
2. Glass walk in shower. Tub is useless, especially for dry camping, and is one thing that never gets used.
3. An option for an Xantrex RS Sine Wave Inverter/Charger RS2000/RS3000.
4. Move battery storage compartment to the front and make it bigger for larger batteries. There is a lot of wasted space by the landing legs.
5. Make the up stairs taller with the bathroom and bedroom the same floor level. Needs to be at least 6' 6".
6. Would like to see a wide body model 8'6". This would be easier to get the thicker walls for the insulation without sacrificing the interior size.
7. More aerodynamic.
8. Better windows with better insulating value. I like the tint.
9. Better black water valve. This is one of the largest complaints about Northwood.
10. Wired with Cat 5/USB cable for computers/printers. More 12v Outlets in convenient places.
11. A/C unit mounted underneath. This makes it quieter and works better being out of the direct sun. Alpha's have this setup.
12. Option for dual recliners or reclining love seat in place of the hide-a-bed or jack knife sofa.
13. Central 12V vacuum system.
14. Water filter for entire system.
15. Pressure/accumulator tank for water system.
16. Better main power control center put where batteries use to be. Have all wires labeled. Battery switch, fuses, breakers, slide controls, all on a convenient easy to see panel.
17. Choice of interior colors and patterns.
18. A control/display panel with more features then the little LED display. I would like to see a Digital AMP/Volts gauge, Solar Controller, Inverter Controller, Generator Controller, Digital Water tank readouts that are more accurate..
19. Rear receiver hitch
20. Back up lights mounted high, real ones.
21. Rear/Side Cameras with monitor for inside truck and connection to TV for inside trailer. USB capable also for sharing views/pics with friends and security issues. One remote control camera mounted on front top by spot light. Infrared for night viewing and security.
22. Remote control spotlight mounted on top/front of roof. Really helps when looking for a spot at night or driving the country roads at night.
23. Thicker/Stronger/Better insulated outside compartment doors, possibly with dead bolts.
That just about covers it. Cost would be $2000 - $4000.
A lot of these things should be standard.
____________________
02 Chevy Ext Cab Shortbox Duramax
06 29-5E (SFE) Artic Fox
3-130 Watt Kyocera solar panels
Blue Sky 2000E solar charge controller
2-Interstate 6V-UL16HC Batteries 415ah
http://artic-fox.spaces.live.com/PersonalSpace.aspx
http://myidahoweather.com
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heighway
Friends of NROA
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#7 Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2007 04:09 |
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| Is there a reason why you are asking this question? Is Northwood going to offering this program for their customer?
____________________
Jeff, Shelly, Son Cole and Dog Blaine
2008 Komfort 277TS
Hensley Hitch
2003 3/4 Ton Chevy Suburban 8.1
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Nvreloader
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#8 Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2007 07:24 |
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heighway wrote: Is there a reason why you are asking this question? Is Northwood going to offering this program for their customer? Hi Jeff, The reason for this poll, to see just what other Northwood RV owners/users would change or get other options for their custom RV, (if they could). I went back and read most all of the posts for modifications, upgrades or problems in the last two years on this forum.
The following problems areas or options seem to fit into these sections, ie small cramped bathroom, wet insulation if there is any leakage problems, blown foam insulation would be a better solution IMHO etc.
I would like believe that if there was enough input from the owners/users of Northwood trailers/RV's as to the likes/dislikes of certain options, or the way that these standard items or options are built/installed, that if enough owners had problems with or did not like certain options, that Northwood (Mr. Nash) would change them out for better options that would fit most Rv owners/users styles and or reduce other problems.
Per information I have received from this forum, is that it is monitored by the Northwood Company and it is just a possibility that these problem options/installs could be changed to better one which would make most RV owners happy. No, I do not have ANY interest in Northwood Company, other than I am waiting for my 28KS to get built and shipped, and it is the BEST RV built, (IMHO) that I have inspected in the last 2 years of looking for a TH.
If I was an owner or had controlling interest of these RV being built, I would greatly appreciate any and all REASONABLE information or feedback I could receive to make my RV the best it could be. After all, it would be a WIN WIN situation for all involved. No, you are NOT going to make everyone happy, regardless of what you do. Have any of the readers ever received a followup surrey for any major product you have bought? I have! (That's why I only own Fords!) No offense meant to anyone. Has Northwood ever sent out a survey to the owners of Northwood products?
After going Thur the factory tour 2 times in June of this year, I have seen several areas that could be upgraded or improved FOR MY USE, and would gladly pay the extra costs required to improve these sections. I will have to do these custom upgrades myself when I get it home. I think that most RV buyers/users would spring for the reasonable dollar amounts or costs to get certain options that they wanted to suit their needs for their RV from all the options that are available. Don.
____________________
*Don&Francie,2 Aussies Bear&Shep
"Where the pavement ends,and the West begins"
2010 F350 PSD,CC,SRW,6 spd man,4x4,3.55,Tow pkg/mirrors,50 gal bed tank,Caravan Camper
2008 DF 28KS,1400# Equalizer WD Hitch
05 Honda Rubicon
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ArcticFoxCats
Member
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#9 Posted: Fri Jul 20th, 2007 17:51 |
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One of the reasons we bought an AF is because of the quality of construction. Thank you to Northwood.
IF they could make ALL of the fiberglass units with the "rounded" corners on the exterior, it would probably be more aerodynamic. (But, I understand this is perhaps cost-prohibitive - ??)
IF they could put the wall plugs in more accessible to reach "spots" that would be SO HELPFUL (i.e., the one for the microwave is clear up at the TOP of the BACK of the cabinet - cannot reach it; and the one underneath the table would be NICE to have moved ABOVE the table instead of on the very bottom of the wall so you have to crawl underneath the table to use it; etc.) And, just a few more here and there for laptop use, etc.
Completely cover the underbelly (but, can be removable for the consumer).
Upgraded axles/hardware standard.
With the limited space available, try and make "accessibility" for maintenance a little more accessible - i.e., 3" to change out water heater issues. Oopsie!!!
I am trying to remember when we use to call it "camping" instead of just an extension of our modern living facilities. It is nice to be able to fix what does require fixing, and be able to use whatever is installed, with ease of operation.
Thank you, Northwoood!!
____________________
07 Nash 19B Hardside (my "wittle foxy" )
07 Chev Classic 2500 Diesel 6.6-LBZ/6spd-Allison /Crew Cab /ShortBed /AirBags
45gal $$$ Trnsfr Flow /BrakeSmart /Equal-i-zer
EnKay mudflaps /XDR Hitch Receiver
09 400cc CanAm ATV
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foxyrvlady
Deputy
| Joined: | Thu Dec 18th, 2003 |
| Location: | Sublimity, OR, USA |
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#10 Posted: Sat Jul 21st, 2007 04:49 |
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| I second Lura's suggestions as we have the same trailer! Crawling under the table to use the AC plug is not my cup of tea--ditto to unloading my dishes from the cupboard over the sink to access the DC or AC plug there (for the TV).
____________________
Linda & Dave (retired US Army)
2002 Arctic Fox 25R, Honda 2000i, Trojan T-125's
2003 DODGE 3500 SLT Quad Cab, 4x4, SRW, HO CTD, 3.73, 48RE, Jake Brake
2010 Prius IV--love the 50 mpg!
AVATAR: Top Gun Jake 1997 - 2010 R.I.P.
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kcmckenzie
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#11 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 04:15 |
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| Outlet under dinette table: We put an extension cord into the outlet that's under the table and ran it up between the table and the wall (between the slots into which the table "hooks" ) which kind of holds it there. Just the "outlet" part is in view and we can plug in a computer or whatever else a LOT easier!!
____________________
*Ken and Carol
Colorado
2003 GMC Sierra 2500 Duramax 4x4, "Chuck the Truck"
2006 27-5L Silver Fox Edition, "Moose"
Avatar: "3 Blind Moose" wine logo
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RAY MARTEL
Member
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#12 Posted: Thu Jul 26th, 2007 03:32 |
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We like our 22H--However, a 22h with a slide would be cool. The unit would probably be a foot or so longer (23HS?) but could still be a smaller trailer with the same great idea of a 22H.
More insulation, better belly covering, and better windows would be good.
____________________
Karen (the bride), Bailey the Aussie and me---looking for a new rig.
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travellers2
Member
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#13 Posted: Fri Jul 27th, 2007 12:32 |
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We love our 26-5C but  one thing we would change on all trailers that are built is the stairs going into the the unit. We would make them wider and a little deeper so a shorter person wouldn't have to open the door then back down the steps to go into the trailer, I am 5'8" and still have to do this. There is no reason that I can think of that this couldn't be changed on a trailer and it would be a lot safer. Take the entry step test, I bet that most of us reach up and open the door from the ground then go in, but a height challenged person or a child can't do this.
Just our pet peeve.
Bruce & Ann
____________________
2005 AF 26-5C, Dexter E-Z Flex, JT's Strong Arm Jack Stabilizer
2003 Dodge 3500 4x4 SRW LB QUAD CAB, air bags & Max Brake
In front of our house the day we brought the AF home.
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Newt
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#14 Posted: Fri Jul 27th, 2007 13:23 |
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travellers2 wrote: We love our 26-5C but one thing we would change on all trailers that are built is the stairs going into the the unit. We would make them wider and a little deeper so a shorter person wouldn't have to open the door then back down the steps to go into the trailer, I am 5'8" and still have to do this. There is no reason that I can think of that this couldn't be changed on a trailer and it would be a lot safer. Take the entry step test, I bet that most of us reach up and open the door from the ground then go in, but a height challenged person or a child can't do this.
Just our pet peeve.
Bruce & Ann
Or move the door handle down a little
____________________
2004 32.5 SnowBird
2009 Dodge/Cummins 6.7, QC, 3.73, 4X4
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travellers2
Member
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#15 Posted: Fri Jul 27th, 2007 18:07 |
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Newt wrote: travellers2 wrote: We love our 26-5C but one thing we would change on all trailers that are built is the stairs going into the the unit. We would make them wider and a little deeper so a shorter person wouldn't have to open the door then back down the steps to go into the trailer, I am 5'8" and still have to do this. There is no reason that I can think of that this couldn't be changed on a trailer and it would be a lot safer. Take the entry step test, I bet that most of us reach up and open the door from the ground then go in, but a height challenged person or a child can't do this.
Just our pet peeve.
Bruce & Ann
Or move the door handle down a little DW suggested that, I think lowering the door handle would cause a problem when you opened the door from the inside. In the building trade I believe there is a standard height that is used for door handles, I am not sure if that carries over to the RV side or not, sure hate to start looking for a door handle in an emergency.
____________________
2005 AF 26-5C, Dexter E-Z Flex, JT's Strong Arm Jack Stabilizer
2003 Dodge 3500 4x4 SRW LB QUAD CAB, air bags & Max Brake
In front of our house the day we brought the AF home.
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nash1
Member
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#16 Posted: Sat Jul 28th, 2007 14:26 |
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Hi all how about A 22h wide body? That way you have extra room and still no slide We love the floor plan but A little narrow by door and end of couch.
thanks Tom
____________________
2005 Nash 22h
1996 chevy suburban 2500 2wd 5.7L with 4.10 rear diff. V-5 hitch and 800 lb bars. 2-24 type deep cycle batterys
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Hornfox
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#17 Posted: Thu Aug 2nd, 2007 03:35 |
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I have a 2005 22M.
I'm suprised this floorplan is not more popular. It just about is a 22H with a slide and wide body.
A couple of things that Northwood could change at little cost are:
1) Heavier wire and 20 amp fuse for the 12volt outlet.
2) Battery rack designed to accomodate 6v batteries.
3) Reading light on wall behind chair.
____________________
*2006 Dodge 2500 Quad cab CTD 2x4 48RE 3.73 Bighorn Edition
Equalizer Hitch, Prodigy, Undercover Tonneau
2005 AF22M, Kipor 3000 TI (Suitcase style)
Avatar: Mt. Rainier, WA
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Nvreloader
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#18 Posted: Thu Aug 2nd, 2007 13:18 |
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Thanks everyone.
Don.
____________________
*Don&Francie,2 Aussies Bear&Shep
"Where the pavement ends,and the West begins"
2010 F350 PSD,CC,SRW,6 spd man,4x4,3.55,Tow pkg/mirrors,50 gal bed tank,Caravan Camper
2008 DF 28KS,1400# Equalizer WD Hitch
05 Honda Rubicon
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Steamguy
Member
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#19 Posted: Thu Oct 18th, 2007 23:55 |
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My wife and I would like to see something with a big rear window in a standard travel trailer.
We currently have a 2000 26J and love it, (yippee, no slideout!) and it's nice and roomy around inside. We have put LOTS of miles on this trailer; it's been the best one we've ever had, and well worth the money!
The only thing we keep saying to each other is that we wish there was a way to have a big back window in a similar-sized trailer. Typically, your best view is out the back!
There are lots of really sharp folks here, neither one of us claims to have the brains to figure out how you'd do this...
____________________
Steamguy
2000 Arctic Fox 26J
2004 Nissan Titan
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Nvreloader
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#20 Posted: Fri Oct 19th, 2007 06:17 |
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Hey Streamguy,
If you want a hole for a window, I'll loan you my old Blue C-52 Homelite chainsaw, just put a new 24" blade on it, and I know it will make a hole big enough for your new window,  , if you can hang onto that beast.
Seriously, have you thought of getting the frame/stud diagram for your 26J from Northwood and see if there might be a way to install a window in the back. It should be a relatively easy project, figuring that you can find the proper sized window to install and know the dimensions of the framing/window etc. A cover could be the same type/style as the front window, and you may be able to get a window from NW etc. Worth checking on. Don.
____________________
*Don&Francie,2 Aussies Bear&Shep
"Where the pavement ends,and the West begins"
2010 F350 PSD,CC,SRW,6 spd man,4x4,3.55,Tow pkg/mirrors,50 gal bed tank,Caravan Camper
2008 DF 28KS,1400# Equalizer WD Hitch
05 Honda Rubicon
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